Friday, March 30, 2012

Woe is me!

Day 4 of being sick in bed. I have been quite ill with some sort of bug. Aches and pains all over, pounding head, sore throat, and sinus pressure. Talk about the ultimate sense of being miserable in hot weather. I began to convince myself that I had malaria since all the symptoms seemed right. But I continued to sleep, watch movies, read, and rewatch Dr. Who for the third time to keep me busy. I took a self-malaria test which was awful. You have to prick your finger with a pushpin-like thing and draw out blood. I couldn't do it to myself, so my friend did it for me. The test resulted with an error, which was really frustrating with all the effort we went through.

I decided to venture out yesterday because I started feeling a little bit better and was going insane in my room. Andrielle and I went to my internship where the director greeted me with, "Wow you look really pale!" Darn, I've been working on my tan too. I taught my classes, but I was so spaced out the entire time. It was at least nice to get out into the open and fresh air instead of wasting away in my room. I decided then that I should really go to the clinic and get checked out. The director, Lisette, offered to drive Andrielle and myself, which was really sweet. It's much easier than having to bargain for a bajaj ride. She drives a pick-up truk and was also giving rides to two other people, meaning Andrielle and I got to sit in the back! It was so much fun. It was weird to think how we were doing this in the middle of a city and nobody cared!

I had another blood test, which was far less painless than the self test. We then waited for about half an hour while they analyzed it. The best clinics and hospitals in town are only really affordable to ex-pats, which is very sad. I saw only one Tanzanian patient come through the lobby while I waited. All the women at the desk were Tanzanian and so were the lab technicians. My doctor, however, was Indian. He was very nice and quickly told me that it wasn't Malaria. He did however say that if what I have didn't go treated, the results could be just as bad. He said it was some sort of bacteria that was a really really bad flu that had taken over my system. I now have drugs and he scolded me for not coming to see him earlier.

On my way back I decided to stop at the mall to have dinner and catch a film. Molly joined me, which was lovely. I really wanted to watch "The Best, Exotic Marigold Hotel" which was an absolutely wonderful film and exactly what I needed. If you haven't heard of it, it's about a group of elderly British people who are all at points in their lives when they need a radical change. They all decide on moving to India where a new hotel for the "elderly and beautiful". When they arrive, they find  that their expectations were far too high. The hotel is not in working conditions and is run by a young Indian man (Dev Patel). It's the story of how each of their lives drastically changes by being in such a different place and experiencing new and wonderful things. Even though these people were in the Golden Age of their lives and English and in India, this movie was totally relevant to the things I've been feeling here. It was hilarious and also had a few of my favorite people in it, including Maggie Smith and Judi Dench, two of the most fabulous women in the world. I so want to be Maggie Smith when I grow old. I definitely recommend the movie to anyone.

When I came back to the room I passed out from exhaustion. I woke up today feel even worse because now I have icky clogged up everything: nose, ears, etc. It's miserable and I can't taste anything. Oh well, I guess a few more days in my room won't kill me and I have lovely friends who are taking care of me, including my room mate who wakes me up every morning with a cup of tea. She's delightful. I am blessed to have good friends and the access to medication. Hopefully I can kick this thing out soon!

Sunday, March 25, 2012

Today was a lovely day. I spent it by going to me new "church" aka THE BEACH!
I almost didn't go. We have a lot of homework right now but we made the decision that we should seize the day and make something of it. I know that sounds rather reckless, but it's actually quite wonderful for the soul. Obviously school is important, but somehow here it is just even harder to deal with. I don't regret my decision at all. If I had stayed behind, I probably would've just pathetically attempted to study all day and would just fall asleep instead.

Me and a few friends took a boat out to an island called Bongoyo which is a few miles off of the coast. It was a busy day since it's the weekend, but there still weren't a ton of people. We set up camp under a banda and stayed the whole day. It was so glorious. An older Swedish woman let me borrow her snorkeling goggles and I was able to go and see an awesome reef on my own. I saw lots of beautiful fish, a couple eels, and even a smallish shark...possibly a tiger shark. I loved it! It was nice because I was able just to swim out on my own and see what I could see.

When the tide came in we could jump off of some rocks into the water. The water was so blue and wonderful. It was also very salty which meant we could float easier. I found some more cool shells and it was just a wonderfully relaxing day. We also treated ourselves to a nice dinner along the ocean.

A few days ago, my friend Sarah and I visited a Baha'i temple downtown for the New Year celebration. We were invited by her boss at her internship who is Persian and she invited me along because my friend knew of my nerdiness for religions. It was a wonderful experience. I did not know that the Baha'i New Year coincides with the spring equinox. I feel like I have a lot more to learn about the religion, but that it is a very interesting one. There a re very few in Tanzania, and those that are are mostly ex-pats. I met several Americans, one of whom gave me the contact number of a Baha'i woman who lives in Davis! the world is just so small sometimes. I enjoyed getting to know some new people and information.
Just when we were starting to go crazy from the heat and chaos of Dar, I was finally able to go on spring break! My friend Molly and I decided to travel to northern Tanzania to Arusha which was full of wonderful experiences. I have been very busy since then and have not been able to write in my blog so pole sana (very sorry)!

On the second to the last day of school before break, my room mate and I got a pretty gnarly eye infection. It was conjunctivitis  but the worse case I've ever seen. My poor room mate got it a lot worse than I did. Her entire face swelled up. I quickly bought bleach and cleaned everything in our room, but I still got it. I got medication pretty early on so luckily I didn't swell up or anything. I still had to wait a few days to leave town, but the doctor said it would actually be better for me to leave the heat of Dar. I did so, gladly. :) Anyone who knows me well knows I do not care for the heat. Why did I come to Africa again? Teehee, just kidding. I love it hear even though it is hot. Luckily all of the locals hate it just as much as I do.

We took a ten hour bus ride to Arusha, leaving very early in the morning. I slept a lot along the way, but it was an incredible ride. First of all, the scenery would change every forty miles or so. We went from the tropical forest jungles of Dar, to mountains, to plains, to rolling hills, to farm lands. Basically we saw every type of scenery possible. It is like driving from one end of California to the other. I love bus rides like that, but this one was pretty long. There was also no air conditioning. We had a lovely spot at the front of the bus and I had the window seat with a nice breeze.

Arusha is a very nice city that is known as the safari capital of the world. It is the gateway for people to get to all of the national parks like Serengeti and Ngorogoro Crater. People also start their journey to climb Kilimanjaro from there. Mount Meru looms over the city and it is absolutely gorgeous.

After a day of exploring the city, we decided that we wanted to take a mini safari. We found a company online with good prices and we had the whole experience to ourselves in an awesome safari car. We went on safari (a word that we’ve adopted from Swahili) outside the city for two days, one day in Tarangire National Park and the other day in Arusha National Park. Each park had something unique to offer. At Tarangire, we saw hundreds of elephants, literally hundreds, as well as a million baobab trees, which are my absolute favorite. I wish I could post pictures for ya'll to see, but Tanzanian internet is failing...as per usual. It was beyond incredible. I couldn't believe how many elephants we saw. I teared up at one point because it was just such an amazing experience.

While visiting Arusha, we saw lots of beautiful twiga (giraffes) as well as all sorts of monkeys (Vervet, Colobus, Blue), zebras, ngiri (warthogs), water buffalo, flamingos, dikdik (that’s the name!), baboons, and impalas. It was incredible! No cats this time, but I’m crossing my fingers for when I go on safari again in May with Daniel! We did go to two different parks that were less touristy because both my friend and I will be returning again. I am so glad we did. It was a wonderful experience. It was also Molly's birthday and I was honored to share that with her.

It really was the perfect way to spend spring break. It was nice that it was just the two of us, instead of the massive group we usually have. Also Molly and I have similar introvertedness so we often just felt like relaxing on our own instead of getting too worn out. Plus, we had a TV which was awesome. I was actually staying caught up with the news! We were both starting to get overwhelmed by everything. It's so hard sometimes when you stand out so much. At one point, I ran out to get more phone credit. I went on my own. We have to get these little cards that have a scratch number on the back which you enter into your phone for a particular amount. It's a pretty awesome system. Anyways, as I was walking along the road, i drew attention from EVERYONE. It wasn't bad attention, it was just the fact that everyone talked to me or greeted me. Personally, this wears me out. Having so much interaction can be hard from me because it means I am always being watched. I dunno, that may sound a little complain-y but honestly it can get to you. At that point I had kind of just had it and wanted to blend into the crowd. But that was impossible. Luckily, I had a room to run back to. It was nice to have another introvert to hang out with. :)

I liked Arusha a lot. I think it is a wonderful city that is also much cooler! I look forward to returning. We returned a few days early so we would have a chance to regroup and go to the beach. It took us even longer to get home: 12 hrs! there was an awful accident along the road that meant we were stuck for about an hour and a half. All of the smaller cars could get through but not the buses and trucks. I've never seen so many trucks in my life! But we got home safe and sound and I was most pleased with my vacation.

When I returned I also moved rooms. I am now living on the 6th floor, which believe it or not makes a huge difference. It's only 100 stairs instead of 114! This has been especially awful the past week and a half when we've had absolutely NO water. A pipe connecting water from Bagamoyo, a city about an hour and a half from here, to Dar Es Salaam had broken somehow and special trucks had to come from outside campus to deliver water. Apparently a fight broke out at the water tank the day before yesterday when the line was even longer than usual. The whole city has felt tense and stinky. No showers, no flushing toilets, and the lines for the water tanks outside were epicly long. It's amazing hwo often we use water. I haven't been able to wash dishes or clothes because it was nearly impossible. Sometimes I just wouldn't have time to wait in line for water! Why they only have one main water line to the city, I have no idea. At least it's back for now!

My new room is very nice. I finally have a Tanzanian room mate. Her name is Irene and she is very sweet. It is a much cleaner room but I do miss Caity already.

I will write with some more adventures the next few days. But now, I must write my swahili paper...yes, I said PAPER! eeek!

Sunday, March 4, 2012

Another one of Emily's Ramblings

I debated whether or not I should put up this blog post. It does not show Tanzanians at their finest, and I really don't want anyone to think that I don't value this country or its truly beautiful people. I also don't want anyone to have assumptions of what it is like here. The fact of the matter is that we live in a dangerous world, and on occasion, this can impact us. I am experiencing something here that is just plain different. In so many of my classes in International Relations, I have often covered the topic of post-colonial discourse and its impact on how our world continues to grow or develop. When comparing the style of living here to my home life, it is essential to recognize the concept of difference. This may sound simple, but when you are truly experiencing how you live your life compared to someone else across the world, it completely turns your perspective upside down. It's not culture shock, per say. It's more of a continuously mind-blowing concept that there are so many people in this world that are living lives that have absolutely no resemblance to mine. I think this kind of sounds obvious, but it helps me daily to embrace the world with an open mind and to recognize that everyone has a story that should be heard.

The reason I mention post-colonial discourse, is that many might classify life here as "under-developed" or "poor" or even worse, "barbaric". That mindset will never get us anywhere. The only way I can truly describe life here is as different. It's hard to find words to describe it. I don't mean different in a derogatory manner. I just state it as a one word summary. Ok, I'll stop rambling about this stuff and get into why I'm posting this in the first place.

 I decided to post it, because it tells of an experience here. These are experiences that I will learn from and even though they can be horrific, they can still help us to grow and increase our knowledge of the wider world. Isn't that what study abroad is all about?

I was warned before I came here about mob justice. I tried to take it light heartedly, but it was still lingering at the back of my mind. Tanzania does not have a very effective police force. People often take the matters of the law into their own hands and this is mostly done through acts of violence. It breaks my heart, but it seems that there is no other way to keep the chance of thievery to a minimum. Of course, I don't believe that, being the pacifist that I am, but this is what dominates a lot of the Tanzanian sense of justice.

For example, if someone is accused of stealing and a scene is made of it, people will be badly injured or killed by those around the incident who will forma  mob. A few days ago in Mwenge (a large marketplace and bus terminal that I often frequent), just an hour or two after I was there, a man was doused in petrol and set on fire because he was accused of stealing. This is a regular occurrence in Tanzania, I'm sad to say.

This concept of mob justice was especially relevant to me and some of my friends today. After a lovely lunch, a group of 5 of us headed to the national stadium to watch a football match. A standard ticket is 5,000 shillings, which equals about $3.50. Not a bad price for watching a professional sports game, aye? If I could get Giants tickets for that price, I'd go every game! Anyways, while we were standing in line (I use the term line loosely here, for it's more a wild crowd) several things happened to us in a very short amount of time. I heard my room mate ahead of me shout, "HEY!" extremely loud and at the same time, a man tried to trip me. I looked at him and said, "Excuse me" in Swahili, then he responded in English that I should be sorry and grabbed my arm while pushing me away. The next thing I knew, a few riot police appeared and pushed the man away and got to my room mate, who had been robbed. Large shouts began happening, but luckily the crowd dispersed before anything else could happen. The fact that we did not make a big deal meant the crowd didn't either. That's when I noticed my phone had been stolen. I checked all of my pockets a million times just to make sure, but yeah, it was gone.

I am very careful and cautious in these situations. I didn't bring a purse, id, or very much money with me for this exact reason. I'm aware of my surroundings and make sure to protect anything I have on me. I didn't even notice that someone had reached into my front pocket and taken my phone, which is a little unnerving. I thought, "Oh well, these things happen". However, as the day went on, things got more interesting.

The game was a lot of fun. We had a blast and I really loved it. The crowds didn't get too rowdy and people mostly enjoyed themselves. At one point of a few of my friends went out of the stadium to get some food. About ten seconds after they were outside, a man ran by them and grabbed one of the girl's wallets from her hands. She instinctively cried out, but then realized her mistake as several people grabbed the man and started beating him with sticks and police batons. Yes, the police were joining in too. One of my friends, a guy, started pulling people off him and they soon realized that the man had already passed on the wallet to someone else so he no longer had it. Fortunately she did not have more than a few dollars worth of shillings and her phone in the wallet. She begged them to stop beating him and they soon did, basically because she was white. In any other circumstances, they may have beaten him to death.

On our way out from the game there were several other attempts of robbery. While I was sitting on the daladala, getting money out to pay the conductor, a man reached in and grabbed my arm attempting to take both my watch and my money that it was in my hand. I rarely will find a situation where I will use an act of violence, but this man was quite persistent in stealing my 2,000 shillings (about $1.25). I hit him quite hard. I probably would've just let him have it, but I actually needed the bus fare!

Anywho, those were our experiences today. We all felt pretty emotionally exhausted. What I couldn't get out of my head was the fact that these people who choose to steal knowingly risk their lives for very small amounts of money. Imagine how desperate they could possibly be. But what I often wonder is why this concept of mob justice exists. It's a terrifying idea and I have no idea where it comes from. Actually, maybe I do. There is a definite lack of faith in the system within Tanzania. The basic instinct of taking control in the situation does seem "barbaric" to an outsider, but really, what else can they do when a government doesn't act to take care of the safety of a country's people? I am in no way justifying this act of violence. It's atrocious and hard to grasp, but even in that desperate moment when a man reached through a bus window and began grabbing my belongings, I acted in violence. Yes, it was self protection, but in a way, isn't mob justice?

If you have something to add to this, I would really appreciate hearing your stories or ideas. It is a troubling subject that I experience great difficulty approaching during my time abroad.

Friday, March 2, 2012

interwebz

Just to let you know, I have EXTREMELY limited internet for the next few weeks.
Apparently, off the coast of Kenya, a ship dragged its anchor through internet cable lines that go to the entire east coast of Africa. It's expected that we will have little or no internet for the next few weeks. Who knows when this will be fixed!
If anything interesting happens to me, I will write it down and update my blog when I can get internet. Wish us all luck! This will be a very difficult time...